A short sleeve Henley T-shirt is a useful project for sewists who want to move beyond a basic crew-neck tee while keeping the construction approachable. The round neckline and short sleeves retain the familiar shape of a T-shirt, while the button placket introduces a more detailed neckline finish and gives you the opportunity to practice precise sewing techniques.
The Winslet's OLIVER Men's Short Sleeve Henley T-shirt Sewing Pattern features a round neckline, three-button front placket, short sleeves, and a straight regular fit. The three functional buttons allow the neckline to be worn more open or closed, giving the finished T-shirt a distinctive Henley-style finish.
Why Sew a Men's Short Sleeve Henley T-shirt?
- The round neckline and short sleeves create a versatile everyday T-shirt.
- The three-button front placket adds the defining Henley detail.
- All three placket buttons are functional, allowing the neckline opening to be adjusted.
- The straight-cut body creates a regular fit through the chest, waist, and hem.
- It can be worn with jeans, chinos, shorts, or casual trousers.
- It can also be layered under an overshirt, cardigan, or lightweight jacket.
- The Henley neckline makes it suitable for both relaxed everyday outfits and smart-casual styling.
Why Choose the Winslet's OLIVER Men's Short Sleeve Henley T-shirt Pattern?
The Winslet's OLIVER Men's Short Sleeve Henley T-shirt Sewing Pattern has a straight, regular fit through the chest, waist, and hem. The short sleeves sit comfortably around the upper arms, while the body falls straight without being overly fitted or oversized.
- Skill Level: Easy
- Round neckline
- Three-button front placket
- Three functional buttons
- Short sleeves
- Straight regular fit
- Available Sizes: US 34 - US 54 | UK 34 - UK 54 | EU 44 - EU 64
Supplies & Notions
The OLIVER Men's Short Sleeve Henley T-shirt Sewing Pattern sewing guide lists the following supplies and notions:
- Tape measure
- Shears
- Iron
- Chalk
- Pins
- 3-ply polyester standard thread
- Thread cutter
- Sewing needles
- Sewing machine
- Serger
- Coverstitch machine
- Fusible interfacing fabric
- Buttonhole presser foot
- Buttons
If you do not have a serger, the guide suggests using a zigzag stitch with the presser foot setting lower than 1 and, if available, a walking foot.
For an alternative to a coverstitch machine, use a twin needle to create a coverstitch effect. You can also use a narrow single-needle zigzag stitch or a straight stitch with a looser thread setting, depending on your sewing machine. Always test the stitch on a sample before sewing the garment.
Fabric Recommendations
The OLIVER Men's Short Sleeve Henley T-shirt Sewing Pattern sewing guide recommends light- to medium-weight knit fabrics with approximately 30–50% stretch. Suitable options include:
- Cotton jersey
- Cotton rib knit
- Knit piqué
Choose a fabric that provides comfortable stretch and good recovery.
The sample T-shirt is made from 100% cotton rib knit fabric at 220 GSM with 30% stretch. The guide recommends this fabric because it has a soft hand feel and breathable cotton composition, while the rib structure provides natural elasticity and helps the garment retain its shape without added elastane.
The fabric also provides enough stability for the Henley placket, neckline, and cuffs. At 220 GSM, it offers medium coverage while remaining comfortable for everyday wear.
Size Charts
Check the size charts and measure yourself to select the correct size, using the garment and body measurement tables in the guide.
Verify how much fabric you need by referencing the fabric yield table in the guide.
Pattern Inventory: What Pieces to Prepare
The OLIVER Men's Short Sleeve Henley T-shirt Sewing Pattern includes the following pattern pieces:
- A. Front - cut x1 fabric
- B. Back - cut x1 fabric
- C. Sleeve - cut x2 fabric
- D. Neck band - cut x1 fabric
- E. Placket - cut x2 fabric
- F. Placket Template - cut x0 fabric
If you are printing at home, use the A4/US Letter pattern. If you are having the pattern printed at a copy shop, use the A0 pattern.
Pattern Marking
The OLIVER Men's Short Sleeve Henley T-shirt Sewing Pattern includes markings that help you align the neckline, placket, sleeves, shoulders, and side seams accurately during construction.
Important markings include:
- Grainlines
- Seam allowances
- Side seams
- Armhole level lines
- Front and back armhole notches
- Shoulders
- Center shoulder markings
- Neckline
- Center neck notch
- Placket marking
- Button and buttonhole markings
- Top and bottom of the placket
- Hem and hemline
Transfer the placket, button, and buttonhole markings carefully, as these reference points are used when constructing and finishing the Henley opening.
Cutting Layout
The OLIVER Men's Short Sleeve Henley T-shirt Sewing Pattern sewing guide provides cutting layouts for both 45" and 60" fabric widths. US size 40 is used to represent the layouts.
Correct pattern placement helps ensure that the garment is cut on-grain. Pinning the pattern pieces also helps maintain accurate shapes while cutting.
The layouts are non-directional. If you are using fabric with a nap or directional print, purchase additional fabric so the pieces can be positioned correctly.
Fabric Cutting and Preparation
For the OLIVER Men's Short Sleeve Henley T-shirt Sewing Pattern, arrange the pieces according to the cutting layout diagrams. Position each piece so that its grainline arrow runs parallel to the selvage.
If you are using fabric shears, trace the pattern pieces before cutting them out. Cut away any pen, pencil, or chalk lines and remember to cut all notches shown along the edges. These markings help you align the pieces during construction.
Use a marking pen, pencil, or chalk to transfer the required markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Mark the center front of pieces cut on the fold to help with accurate alignment.
Seam Allowance
Please follow the seam allowances as indicated on the pattern file layers. These are provided specifically for each piece to ensure accurate construction.
This pattern uses a 1 cm (3/8”) seam allowance all around, and 2.5 cm (1”) at the hem.
Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions
1. For Preparing and Attaching Front Placket
1a. Cut two pieces of lightweight fusible interfacing using the interfacing area marked on Pattern E, excluding the seam allowances.
Fuse one piece to the wrong side of each placket piece according to the interfacing manufacturer's instructions.
1b. Fold the seam allowance along both long edges of each placket to the wrong side and press.
1c. Fold each placket in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press to create a center crease. Unfold after pressing.
1d. With the front right side up, place one unfolded placket right sides together with the front.
Align the placket's raw long edge with one side of the marked placket opening and align its top edge with the neckline.
Stitch from the neckline to the marked lower corner using the 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance. Stop precisely at the lower corner and backstitch.
1e. Repeat the same process with the other prepared placket piece.
1f. Cut down the center of the marked opening, stopping approximately 1 cm (3/8") above the bottom.
Clip diagonally into both lower corners to create a small inverted V. Clip as close to the stitching as possible without cutting through it.
Optional: Finish the cut edges with a zigzag stitch.
1g. Use the center crease as a guide to fold each placket piece in half, turning it toward the wrong side.
Fold the open edge seam allowance inward to fully enclose the raw edges. Pin both plackets in place, making sure the overlap placket on the wearer's left lies over the underlap placket on the wearer's right.
Pin along the placket side seamlines to secure the folded seam allowance. Do not stitch the long placket edges yet; these will be edgestitched later in Step 4d.
1h. Align the bottoms of both placket pieces together. Pin securely, then use a zigzag stitch or serger to sew the raw edges of the bottom placket together.
1i. From the right side, make sure the overlap lies evenly over the underlap.
Stitch horizontally across the bottom of the placket through all layers, following the marked stitching line. Backstitch securely at both ends.
2. For Attaching Shoulders
2a. Place the front and back pieces with their right sides facing each other. Align the shoulder seams and pin.
2b. Sew both shoulder seams using a serger or stretch stitch. Press the seam allowances toward the back.
3. For Preparing Neck Band
Fold the neckband in half lengthwise with wrong sides together, aligning the long raw edges. Match the center notch and press lightly.
4. For Attaching Neckband
4a. Turn the plackets wrong side out with the seam allowances folded to the wrong side. Press and pin. Mark the center of each placket.
4b. With the shirt right side up, align the raw edges of the folded neckband with the neckline.
Match the center-back neckband notch to the center-back neckline and match the neckband ends to the marked center-front placket edges.
Distribute the neckband evenly around the neckline without stretching the shirt neckline. Pin, then sew or overlock around the neckline using a 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance.
4c. Turn the placket ends right side out and gently push out the upper corners. Press the neckband upward and the seam allowance toward the body.
4d. From the right side, edgestitch along both long edges of the placket, catching the folded inner edges underneath. Begin at the neckline and stitch to the base of the placket.
4e. Press the neckband upward and the seam allowance toward the shirt body.
From the right side, topstitch around the neckline close to the neckband seam, catching the seam allowance underneath. Press.
5. For Attaching the Sleeve
5a. Lay the shirt open with the right side facing up. Place one sleeve (pattern C) on the shirt with right sides together.
Align the front notches and back notches. Match the center of the sleeve to the shoulder seam.
Pin the sleeve along the armhole curve and overlock to attach it.
5b. Repeat the same process for the other sleeve.
6. For Attaching Side Seams
Turn the shirt wrong side out.
Carefully match and pin the underarm seam intersection first so that the sleeve and bodice seams align. Align the remaining side seams.
Using a serger, sew from the sleeve hem down to the bottom hem.
Repeat for the other side seam.
7. For Finishing Hem
7a. Fold the 2.5 cm (1") hem allowance to the wrong side and press.
Coverstitch the hem from the right side so that the neat double stitching appears on the outside.
7b. Repeat the same process for the sleeve hems.
8. For Attaching the Buttons and Buttonholes
Use Pattern F, the Placket Template, to transfer the button and buttonhole positions to the finished placket.
Using a buttonhole presser foot, create the three buttonholes first. Then sew the three buttons onto the opposite placket using zigzag stitches.
Ready to Sew Your Own Men's Short Sleeve Henley T-shirt?
The Winslet's OLIVER Sewing Pattern combines the comfort and versatility of a short sleeve T-shirt with the distinctive detail of a functional three-button Henley placket. Its straight regular fit makes it easy to wear on its own or as a layering piece.
As an Easy-level project, OLIVER is a useful way to practice sewing knit fabric while developing techniques such as interfacing a placket, clipping a placket opening, applying a neckband, setting in sleeves, coverstitching hems, and sewing buttonholes.
Get the OLIVER Men's Short Sleeve Henley T-shirt Sewing Pattern and sew a versatile Henley T-shirt for an everyday handmade wardrobe.
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Browse our Men's T-shirt Sewing Pattern Collection for more handmade everyday tops that can be worn on their own or layered with shirts, jackets, and other casual wardrobe pieces.
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