Pleated pants are a timeless wardrobe staple that combines tailored styling with everyday comfort. Their structured waistband, wide-leg silhouette, and elegant pleats create a polished look that's suitable for both casual and dressier outfits. Sewing your own pair allows you to achieve a custom fit while learning several classic garment construction techniques.
The Winslet's Cleo Pleated Pants Sewing Pattern is a rewarding intermediate project for sewists who want to expand their skills. Featuring a high-waisted fit, wide legs, double front pleats, side pockets, a front fly, and back welt pockets, this pattern provides detailed step-by-step instructions to help you achieve a professional finish.
Why Sew Pleated Pants?
- Create elegant high-waisted wide-leg pants with a timeless tailored silhouette.
- Learn classic tailoring techniques, including double pleats, a front fly, side seam pockets, and welt pockets.
- Customize your fabric choice for casual everyday wear or polished outfits.
- Sew a versatile wardrobe staple that pairs beautifully with blouses, shirts, knit tops, and jackets.
- Build confidence with intermediate sewing techniques while creating a professional-looking garment.
Why Choose the Winslet's Cleo Pleated Pants Pattern?
The Cleo Pleated Pants Sewing Pattern is designed to help sewists confidently create beautifully tailored pants with clear, step-by-step instructions.
- Skill Level: Intermediate
-
Design Features:
- High-waisted wide-leg pants
- Double front pleats
- Side seam pockets
- Front fly
- Back welt pockets
- Available Sizes: US 02 - US 32 | UK 06 - UK 36 | EU 36 - EU 64
Supplies & Notions
Gather the following supplies before you begin sewing:
- Light-weight woven fabric
- 3-ply polyester thread
- Sewing machine
- Tape measure
- Fabric shears
- Thread cutter
- Pins
- Sewing needles
- Tailor's chalk
- Iron
- Fusible interfacing
- Buttonhole presser foot
- Buttons
Fabric Recommendations
The sewing guide recommends light-weight woven fabrics, including:
- Cotton
- Linen
- Silk
- Crepe
- Polyester
- Viscose
The sample garment shown in the sewing guide is made from cotton chambray herringbone fabric.
This fabric is recommended because it offers:
- A distinctive V-shaped herringbone weave
- Lightweight and breathable comfort
- A soft hand feel
- Excellent durability
- Versatility for a variety of garments
- A classic, timeless appearance
- Easy-care properties
Size Charts
Check the size charts and measure yourself to select the correct size, using the garment and body measurement tables in the guide.
Verify how much fabric you need by referencing the fabric yield table in the guide.
Pattern Inventory: What Pieces to Prepare
The Cleo Pleated Pants Sewing Pattern includes the following pattern pieces:
- A. Front — Cut 2 Fabric
- B. Center Front Belt — Cut 2 Fabric
- C. Front Middle Belt — Cut 2 Fabric
- D. Side Front Belt — Cut 2 Fabric
- E. Front Belt Facing — Cut 2 Fabric
- F. Back — Cut 2 Fabric
- G. Back Yoke — Cut 2 Fabric
- H. Center Back Waist Belt — Cut 2 Fabric
- I. Middle Back Belt — Cut 2 Fabric
- J. Side Back Belt — Cut 2 Fabric
- K. Back Belt Facing — Cut 2 Fabric
- M. Side Pocket — Cut 2 Fabric
- N. Back Pocket Lining — Cut 2 Fabric
- O. Back Pocket Bone — Cut 2 Fabric
The pattern includes both A4/US Letter files for home printing and A0 files for copy-shop printing.
Pattern Marking
Before cutting your fabric, familiarize yourself with the markings shown on the pattern pieces. These markings help ensure accurate alignment throughout construction. The pattern includes:
- Grainline
- Waistline edge
- Bottom waistline
- Center front
- Center back
- Side seam
- Inseam
- Crotch line
- Fly
- Fly center
- Fly extension
- Fly bottom
- Fly notch
- Side pleat notch
- Middle pleat notch
- Middle seam 1
- Middle seam 2
- Middle seam 3
- Middle seam 4
- Bottom yoke
- Welt pocket marking
- Top line
- Bottom line
- Welt center
- Slant pocket line
- Center pocket notch
- Pocket top
- Pocket bottom
- Pocket side
- Hemline
- Seam allowance
The sewing guide also notes that the inseam is the measurement from the crotch down to the ankle bone, representing the length of the inner leg.
Cutting Layout
The sewing guide provides cutting layouts for both 45-inch and 60-inch fabric widths.
For accurate cutting:
- Arrange the pattern pieces according to the recommended cutting layouts.
- Position every grainline parallel to the fabric selvage.
- Pin the pattern pieces securely before cutting for greater accuracy.
- The layouts are designed for non-directional fabrics.
- Purchase additional fabric when using fabrics with nap or directional prints.
- The illustrated layouts use the large size as the example.
Fabric Cutting and Preparation
Prepare your fabric carefully before beginning construction.
Arrange the pattern pieces according to the cutting layout diagrams, ensuring every grainline arrow runs parallel to the fabric selvage.
If you are using fabric shears, trace the pattern pieces before cutting and trim away any pen, pencil, or chalk lines as you cut. Remember to cut all notches, as these markings help align the pieces accurately during assembly.
Transfer all required pattern markings, including circles, buttonholes, and fold lines, to the wrong side of the fabric using tailor's chalk or another suitable marking tool. Mark the center front on pieces cut on the fold to ensure accurate alignment during construction.
Seam Allowance
Please follow the seam allowances as indicated on the pattern file layers. These are provided specifically for each piece to ensure accurate construction.
This pattern uses a 1.14 cm (1/2 inch) seam allowance all around and 12.7 cm (5 inch) at the hem.
Step-by-Step Sewing Instructions
Step 1: Sew the Front Pleats
1a. Form the middle pleat
Bring the middle pleat notch to its matching notch on the front piece. Fold the pleat in the direction indicated on the pattern and press it into place. Baste across the waist edge to secure the pleat temporarily.
1b. Form the side pleat
Bring the side pleat notch to its matching notch. Fold and press the pleat in the direction shown on the pattern, then baste across the waist edge to hold it in position.
Repeat the same process for the second front pant leg.
Step 2: Sew the Side Seam Pockets
2a. Attach the pocket bags
Place one Side Pocket piece right sides together with each front pant piece, aligning the slanted pocket opening. Stitch along the pocket opening seamline.
2b. Understitch the pocket
Press the pocket away from the front pant and understitch close to the seam allowance to help the pocket remain on the inside.
2c. Position the pocket
Fold the pocket toward the wrong side of the front pant and press the pocket opening neatly into place.
2d. Secure the pocket
Baste the pocket along the waist and side seam edges to keep it aligned during the remaining construction.
Repeat the same process for the second front piece.
Step 3: Sew the Back Welt Pockets
3a. Prepare the welt opening
Apply fusible interfacing to the welt pocket area on the wrong side of the back pant pieces. Mark the welt pocket placement lines clearly.
3b. Attach the welt pieces
Position the Back Pocket Bone pieces on the marked welt opening and stitch along the marked rectangle as shown in the sewing guide.
3c. Cut the welt opening
Cut carefully through the center of the stitched rectangle, clipping diagonally into each corner without cutting through the stitching.
3d. Turn and press
Turn the welt pieces through to the wrong side and press carefully to create a clean, even welt opening.
3e. Attach the pocket lining
Place the Back Pocket Lining onto the welt pieces, align the edges, and stitch around the pocket bag to complete the pocket.
Repeat the entire process for the second back pant piece.
Step 4: Attach the Back Yoke
Place each Back Yoke right sides together with its corresponding Back piece. Match the notches and sew along the yoke seam.
Press the seam allowances toward the yoke. Repeat for the second back piece.
Step 5: Sew the Front Fly
5a. Prepare the fly extension
Apply fusible interfacing to the fly extension as indicated in the sewing guide. Fold and press the fly extension along the marked fold line.
5b. Install the zipper
Position the zipper beneath the fly extension and sew it in place following the marked fly construction lines.
5c. Complete the fly
Close the fly, topstitch along the fly curve, and secure the lower end of the fly with reinforcement stitches.
Step 6: Sew the Inseams
Place the Front and Back pant pieces right sides together. Match the inseams and sew each leg from the crotch to the hem.
Press the seam allowances open or finish them as desired.
Step 7: Sew the Side Seams
Match the front and back side seams with right sides together, ensuring the side pockets are positioned correctly.
Sew each side seam continuously from the waist to the hem, enclosing the pocket bags within the seam.
Step 8: Sew the Crotch Seam
Turn one pant leg right side out and insert it into the other leg so the right sides are together.
Align the front and back crotch seams carefully and sew the entire crotch seam in one continuous stitch.
Step 9: Attach the Waistband
Join the Center Front Belt, Front Middle Belt, Side Front Belt, Center Back Waist Belt, Middle Back Belt, and Side Back Belt pieces in the order shown in the sewing guide to create the complete waistband.
Attach the Front Belt Facing and Back Belt Facing pieces as instructed, then sew the completed waistband to the pants, matching all seams and notches before stitching. Press the waistband neatly in preparation for the remaining finishing steps.
Step 10: Prepare the Back Waistbelt
10a. Join the center back belt
Place the Center Back Belt and Middle Back Belt right sides together. Align Middle Seam 3 and sew the pieces together.
10b. Press the seam
Spread the stitched pieces open along the seamline and press them flat.
10c. Attach the side back belt
Place the Side Back Belt onto the prepared back waistband, aligning Middle Seam 4. Sew along the seamline.
10d. Complete the waistband
Press the seam allowances open.
Repeat Steps 10a–10d for the second back waistband.
Step 11: Attach the Back Waistbelt
11a. Sew the waistband
Place the prepared Back Waistbelt right sides together with the prepared Back Leg, matching the bottom waistline. Sew along the seamline.
11b. Press the seam
Spread the seam allowances open and press.
Repeat the same process for the second back leg.
Step 12: Attach the Back Belt Facing
Place the Back Belt Facing on the waistline edge of the back leg with right sides together. Sew along the waistline seam.
Repeat the same process for the second back leg, then spread the stitched pieces open and press the seam allowances.
Step 13: Sew the Back Crotch Seam
Place the completed Back pant pieces right sides together. Align the crotch line, back yoke, waistbelt, and back belt facing seams carefully.
Sew along the crotch seam to join the two back pieces.
Step 14: Sew the Inseams
Place the completed Front and Back pant pieces right sides together. Match the inseams accurately and sew each leg from the crotch to the hem.
Press the seam allowances after stitching.
Step 15: Sew the Side Seams
Align the Front and Back side seams with right sides together, ensuring the side seam pockets are positioned correctly.
Sew both side seams from the waist to the hem, enclosing the pocket bags within the seams. Press the seam allowances.
Step 16: Finish the Waistband
Fold the waistband facing to the inside, enclosing the waist seam allowances. Press the waistband carefully and stitch in place as shown in the sewing guide to create a clean, finished waistband.
Complete the waistband closure according to the pattern instructions.
Step 17: Sew the Buttonhole and Button
Using a buttonhole presser foot, sew the buttonhole at the marked location on the waistband.
Sew the button onto the corresponding waistband marking to complete the front closure.
Step 18: Hem the Pants
Fold the 5-inch hem allowance toward the wrong side of the pants and press it into place.
Sew along the folded hem to complete the pants with a clean, professional finish.
Ready to Sew Your Own Pleated Pants?
A pair of tailored pleated pants is a timeless addition to any handmade wardrobe. With their high-waisted fit, elegant double pleats, wide legs, side seam pockets, front fly, and back welt pockets, the Cleo Pleated Pants offer a polished look that's suitable for both everyday wear and more refined occasions.
Designed for intermediate sewists, the Cleo Pleated Pants Sewing Pattern guides you through classic tailoring techniques step by step, helping you build confidence while creating a beautifully finished garment. Choose your favorite woven fabric, enjoy the construction process, and create a pair of trousers you'll wear for years to come.
If you're ready to expand your garment sewing skills with a sophisticated tailoring project, the Cleo Pleated Pants Sewing Pattern is a wonderful addition to your pattern collection.
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Join the Community & Get Support
Share your finished Cleo Pleated Pants on social media with #MadeWithWinslets. If you have questions, feedback, or customization requests, contact the Winslet's team at support@winslets.com.
