To identify the right side of fabric, compare both sides for differences in print, color, sheen, selvage markings, surface texture, or knit structure. For jersey fabrics, the direction the cut edges roll when stretched can also help you determine which side should face outward.
In this guide, you’ll learn five practical ways to identify the right and wrong sides of fabric, plus what to do when both sides look almost identical. Knowing this before starting a sewing pattern from Winslet's or another pattern helps you keep the intended outer surface of the fabric consistent throughout your project.
What Is the Right Side of Fabric?
The right side is the side of the fabric intended to be visible on the outside of the finished garment. The wrong side is normally hidden inside.
With some fabrics, the difference is immediately obvious. A printed fabric, for example, may have a clearly visible design on one side and a faded or unfinished-looking surface on the other.
Other fabrics can be much harder to distinguish, especially solid-colored fabrics, knits, or fabrics where both sides have a similar finish.
When the difference is subtle, use several characteristics rather than relying on a single clue.
How Can You Tell the Right Side From the Wrong Side of Fabric?
Start by visually comparing both surfaces, then examine the selvages and fabric structure more closely.
The five methods below can help you determine which side is most likely the right side.
1. Look for Visual Differences Between the Two Sides
The simplest method is to compare how the two sides look.
For Printed Fabric
If the design is printed on only one side, the printed side is most likely the right side.
If the print can be seen from both sides, compare them carefully. The right side may appear brighter or more clearly defined than the wrong side.
For Solid Fabric
Solid-colored fabrics can be less obvious because there may be no print to use as a reference.
Hold the fabric up to a light source and compare both sides. Look for subtle differences in tone or sheen that may help distinguish one surface from the other.
2. Check the Selvage for Printing or Markings
Printing along the selvage can help identify the right side of some fabrics.
The selvages are the finished edges running lengthwise along the two sides of the fabric, parallel to the grain.
Look along these edges for information such as:
-
Brand names
-
Color charts
-
Printed markings
-
Other identifying information
When this information is printed on the selvage, the side from which it can be read is generally the right side.
3. Examine the Selvage Pinholes
Raised pinholes along the selvage can provide another clue, although this method is not always definitive.
Some fabrics develop small holes in their selvages during manufacturing. These are usually created with pins inserted from the wrong side.
Gently run your finger over both sides of the selvage. If you can feel raised dots or bumps on one side, that side will probably be the right side.
However, there can be exceptions because some fabrics may be manufactured the other way around. For that reason, do not rely on the pinholes alone.
Instead, combine this clue with visual differences, selvage printing, or another identification method.
4. Look Closely at the Structure of Knit Fabric
For knit fabric, the stitch structure itself can help distinguish the right side from the wrong side.
This can be particularly useful with solid-colored knits or fabrics where the design is incorporated into the fabric rather than printed clearly on one surface.
What Does the Right Side of Knit Fabric Look Like?
The right side often has a smoother-looking surface with small vertical ribs or V-shaped stitches.
Look closely at the fabric and search for those vertical lines.
What Does the Wrong Side of Knit Fabric Look Like?
The wrong side often shows small horizontal loops rather than the smoother vertical structure visible on the right side.
Some fabrics make this distinction especially noticeable. Sweatshirting or French terry, for example, can have a soft fleece or loop-like texture on the back.
Comparing the structure of both surfaces can therefore help you decide which one is intended to face outward.
5. Check Which Way Jersey Fabric Rolls
With jersey, stretching a cut edge can help you identify the right side.
You can first look for the vertical ribs associated with the right side of a knit. If you are still unsure, use the way the fabric rolls as another clue.
How to Use the Jersey Roll Test
-
Identify the selvage edge.
This is the finished lengthwise edge of the fabric. -
Cut along the crosswise grain.
The cut should run at a right angle to the selvage. -
Stretch the cut crosswise edge.
Gently pull the fabric and observe which way it curls. -
Look at the direction of the roll.
The cut fabric tends to roll toward the right side. -
Compare this with the selvage edges.
The finished selvage edges, on the other hand, will often roll toward the wrong side.
This gives you another way to check jersey when the two surfaces look very similar.
If you'd like to see these five methods demonstrated visually, you can watch the video below.
What If You Still Cannot Tell Which Side Is the Right Side?
If there is no noticeable difference between the two sides, the fabric may be double-sided and may not have one clearly defined right side.
In that case, choose the side you prefer and use it consistently as the right side throughout your project.
This is especially important because a difference that looks almost invisible while you are sewing may become more noticeable under different lighting once the garment is finished.
How Do You Keep Track of the Right and Wrong Sides While Sewing?
Mark one side of the fabric so you can identify it consistently throughout construction.
If both sides look almost identical, choose which surface you want to use as the right side. Then mark the other side with an X or another simple mark using chalk or a washable pen.
That gives you an easy visual reference as you work.
Step-by-Step: Marking Similar-Looking Fabric
-
Compare both sides and decide which one you want to use as the right side.
-
Keep that choice consistent for all of your pattern pieces.
-
Mark the wrong side with an X or another recognizable mark.
-
Use chalk or a washable pen for the marking.
-
Check your marks as you sew so the same surface remains on the intended side throughout the project.
This method is particularly useful when the visual difference between the two surfaces is very slight.
Should You Rely on Only One Method?
Not always. When the difference between the right and wrong sides is subtle, comparing several clues can give you a clearer answer.
For example, you might first compare the color or sheen and then examine the selvage. With a knit, you could compare the stitch structure and, for jersey, also check the direction in which a cut edge rolls.
This is particularly important with selvage pinholes because their direction can vary depending on how the fabric was manufactured.
Common Mistakes When Identifying the Right Side of Fabric
The main mistakes are relying on an uncertain clue by itself or failing to keep your chosen side consistent when the fabric looks identical on both surfaces.
Assuming the Brighter Side Is Always the Right Side
Brightness can be useful with printed fabrics, but use it as part of your overall visual comparison rather than assuming every fabric will behave the same way.
Relying Only on Selvage Pinholes
Raised selvage pinholes can indicate the right side, but there are manufacturing exceptions. Check another characteristic as well.
Expecting Every Fabric to Have an Obvious Right Side
Some fabrics may effectively be double-sided. If you cannot distinguish the surfaces, you can choose the side you prefer.
Forgetting Which Side You Chose
When both surfaces look similar, mark the wrong side with chalk or a washable pen and keep your choice consistent throughout sewing.
Identify the Right Side Before You Start Sewing
Finding the right side of fabric can be as simple as checking the print, but similar-looking fabrics may require a closer look at the selvage, surface sheen, knit structure, or direction of curl.
If the two sides remain indistinguishable, choose the surface you prefer and mark the wrong side so you can stay consistent while sewing. When preparing your next project, explore Winslet's sewing patterns collection and use these checks to identify your fabric surfaces before construction begins.
FAQs
What is the right side of fabric?
The right side is the surface intended to be visible on the outside of the finished garment. The wrong side is normally hidden inside.
How can I identify the right side of printed fabric?
If the print appears only on one surface, that is most likely the right side. If the design appears on both sides, the right side may look brighter.
How can I tell the right side of solid-colored fabric?
Hold the fabric toward a light source and compare both surfaces for differences in tone or sheen.
Can the selvage tell me which side is right?
Sometimes. Printed brand names, color charts, or other information along the selvage should appear on the right side. Raised pinholes can also provide a clue, although there can be exceptions.
How do I identify the right side of knit fabric?
Look at the stitch structure. The right side often appears smoother with vertical ribs or small V shapes, while the wrong side commonly shows horizontal loops.
Which way does jersey roll?
When a crosswise cut edge is stretched, jersey tends to roll toward the right side. The finished selvage edges will often roll toward the wrong side.
What if my fabric looks identical on both sides?
It may be double-sided. Choose the surface you prefer as the right side and remain consistent throughout the project.
How can I remember which side is the wrong side?
Mark the wrong side with an X or another simple mark using chalk or a washable pen.
