To adjust hip width on a sewing pattern, calculate the difference between your hip circumference and the pattern’s hip measurement, divide that difference across the four side-seam edges, and use a pivot method to increase or decrease the pattern at the hip. This allows you to change the hip width while keeping the original waist width unchanged.
In this guide, you’ll learn how to calculate your hip adjustment, locate the waist and hip lines, and use the pivot method to either add or remove width at the hip. This technique is useful when the waist of your chosen pattern size fits but the hip needs more or less room, including when preparing suitable sewing patterns from Winslet's before cutting your fabric.
When Do You Need to Adjust the Hip Width of a Sewing Pattern?
A hip adjustment is useful when the pattern size works at the bust and waist but the hip measurement does not match your body measurement.
For example, if your chosen size is drafted for a 40-inch hip but your actual hip circumference is 42 inches, you need to increase the hip area.
If the pattern is drafted for a 40-inch hip but your hips measure 38 inches, you need to decrease the hip area.
The adjustment shown here changes the pattern along the side seam while keeping the waist width the same.
What Do You Need for a Hip Adjustment?
You need the pattern, its body measurement information, paper, straight pins, and two different-colored markers.
The supplies used for this method are:
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Paper for transferring the alteration
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Pattern body measurements
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Pattern pieces being altered
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Straight pins
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Two different-colored markers
Using two colors makes it easier to distinguish the original pattern outline from the new side seam.
The pattern can also be placed over cardboard so the straight pins can act like push pins while you pivot the pattern.
How Do You Calculate a Hip Adjustment?
Find the difference between your actual hip circumference and the pattern hip circumference, then divide that number by four.
The adjustment is divided by four because there are four side-seam edges across the front and back pattern pieces.
Example: Increasing the Hip
Suppose:
Your hip circumference = 42 inches
Pattern hip circumference = 40 inches
Calculate:
42 − 40 = 2 inches
Then:
2 ÷ 4 = 1/2 inch
You therefore need to add 1/2 inch at each side-seam edge.
Example: Decreasing the Hip
Suppose:
Pattern hip circumference = 40 inches
Your hip circumference = 38 inches
Calculate:
40 − 38 = 2 inches
Then:
2 ÷ 4 = 1/2 inch
You therefore need to remove 1/2 inch at each side-seam edge.
The direction changes, but the basic calculation is the same.
How Do You Prepare the Pattern for the Hip Adjustment?
Place paper underneath the side-seam area and trace the original pattern edge before making the alteration.
You only need paper beneath the area being changed. The center-front or center-back edge is not altered with this method.
Step-by-Step: Preparing the Pattern
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Lay paper beneath the pattern.
Position it under the side-seam area where the hip adjustment will be made. -
Secure the paper and pattern.
Straight pins can be used if you are working over cardboard. -
Trace the original side-seam area.
Use the first marker color to outline the original pattern edge onto the paper. -
Keep this original outline visible.
It gives you a reference point when the pattern is pivoted and later returned to its starting position.
If your tissue pattern is wrinkled, it can be pressed gently before beginning. Use a cool or slightly warm iron rather than a very hot iron.
Where Are the Pivot Points for a Hip Adjustment?
The two pivot points are positioned at the waistline and hip line, inside the side seam by the pattern’s seam allowance.
Finding the Waist Pivot Point
If the waistline is printed on the pattern, extend that line to the side-seam edge.
Then measure inward from the side seam by the seam allowance and mark the pivot point.
In the example, the seam allowance is 5/8 inch, so the pivot point is marked 5/8 inch inward.
If the pattern reaches the natural waist but does not show a waistline, the waistline can be located just beyond the seam allowance at the top edge.
Finding the Hip Pivot Point
If the hip line is printed on the pattern, extend it to the side seam.
If it is not marked, check the pattern information to see whether the waist-to-hip distance is provided. In the example, this distance is 9 inches.
If that information is unavailable, measure your own body from the natural waist to the fullest part of the hips to determine where the hip line falls.
Once you have the hip line, measure inward by the seam allowance and mark the second pivot point.
How to Increase Hip Width on a Sewing Pattern
To increase the hip, mark the required adjustment outward from the original side seam at both the hip and hem, then pivot the pattern outward from the waist and hip pivot points.
For example, if your calculated adjustment is 1/2 inch, both new marks are positioned 1/2 inch outside the original pattern edge.
Step-by-Step: Increasing the Hip
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Mark the increase at the hip.
At the hip line, measure outward from the original side seam by your calculated amount. -
Mark the same increase at the hem.
Measure outward by the same amount at the bottom edge. -
Pin the waist pivot point.
Place a straight pin through the waistline pivot point. -
Pivot the pattern outward.
Rotate the pattern until the original side seam at the hip reaches the new hip-width mark. -
Hold the pattern in position.
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Trace from the hip toward the waist.
Using your second marker color, trace the pattern edge from the hip line up to the top. -
Pin the hip pivot point.
Keep the pattern in its altered position and move the pivot to the marked point on the hip line. -
Pivot the lower pattern section.
Rotate the pattern until the hem edge reaches the new hem mark. -
Trace from the hem to the hip.
Draw the new lower side seam. -
Return the pattern to its original position.
Line it back up with your first traced outline. -
Secure the added paper and cut along the new outline.
The new side seam now follows the altered line.
The result keeps the original waist width, gradually increases toward the hip, and continues at the increased width toward the hem.
If you'd like to see this adjustment demonstrated step by step, you can watch the video below.
How to Decrease Hip Width on a Sewing Pattern
To decrease the hip, use the same pivot points but mark the calculated adjustment inward from the original side seam.
If your calculated decrease is 1/2 inch, mark 1/2 inch inward at both the hip line and hem.
Step-by-Step: Decreasing the Hip
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Mark the decrease at the hip.
Measure inward from the original side seam by your calculated amount. -
Mark the same amount at the hem.
Measure inward at the bottom edge and make another mark. -
Pin through the waist pivot point.
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Pivot the pattern inward.
Rotate it until the side seam at the hip meets your new hip mark. -
Secure the pattern temporarily.
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Trace from the hip to the waist.
Use your second marker color to establish the new upper side seam. -
Move the pivot to the hip point.
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Pivot the lower section inward.
Move the pattern until the hem reaches the new inward mark. -
Trace from the hem to the hip.
This creates the lower portion of the new side seam. -
Return the pattern to its original position.
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Attach the tracing paper to the pattern.
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Use the new line as your side seam.
Cut along the original edge until you reach the new altered line, then follow the new side seam toward the waist.
If you are unsure about permanently cutting the pattern, the unwanted portion can instead be folded underneath along the new edge. This allows you to return to the original pattern if the alteration needs to be changed.
Why Does the Pivot Method Keep the Waist the Same?
The waist remains unchanged because the first pivot occurs at the waistline inside the seam allowance.
Instead of redrawing the entire side seam freely, the pattern rotates around this fixed point. The new side seam therefore starts from the existing waist area and gradually moves inward or outward toward the hip.
For an increase, it tapers outward toward the fuller hip. For a decrease, it tapers inward toward the smaller hip.
Do You Need to Adjust the Hem Too?
Yes. In this method, the same calculated hip adjustment is also marked at the hem.
After tracing the waist-to-hip portion, the pattern pivots again at the hip. The hem is moved to the corresponding adjustment mark, and the side seam is traced between the hip and hem.
This creates the new side seam below the fullest hip area.
Common Mistakes When Adjusting Hip Width
The main things to avoid are using the full circumference difference at one seam, placing the pivot points incorrectly, or changing the waist when only the hip needs adjustment.
Forgetting to Divide the Adjustment by Four
The total hip difference is distributed across four side-seam edges. A 2-inch total difference therefore becomes 1/2 inch at each edge in the demonstrated examples.
Altering the Center Front or Center Back
This method changes the side-seam area. The center-front or center-back edge is left unchanged.
Forgetting the Seam Allowance When Marking Pivot Points
The pivot points are placed inward from the side-seam edge by the pattern's seam allowance.
Using Only the Hip Mark
The method uses a second adjustment mark at the hem so the side seam can continue below the hip.
Permanently Cutting Before You Are Comfortable With the Alteration
When decreasing the hip, you can fold the excess pattern underneath instead of immediately cutting it away.
Adjust the Hip Fit Before Cutting Your Fabric
Adjusting the hip width at the paper-pattern stage allows you to increase or decrease the hip area while preserving a waist measurement that already works for you. Calculate the total difference first, divide it across the four side-seam edges, then use the waist and hip pivot points to establish the new side seam.
Whether you need more or less room through the hips, the same basic pivot method can be used in opposite directions. When preparing your next project, explore Winslet's sewing patterns collection and make any necessary fit adjustments before cutting your fabric.
FAQs
How do I make a sewing pattern wider at the hips?
Calculate the difference between your hip circumference and the pattern hip measurement, divide by four, and add that amount at each side-seam edge using the pivot method.
How do I make a pattern smaller at the hips?
Subtract your hip circumference from the pattern hip measurement, divide the difference by four, and pivot the side seam inward by that amount at the hip and hem.
Why do I divide the hip adjustment by four?
The adjustment is distributed across four side-seam edges: two on the front and two on the back.
Will adjusting the hips change the waist?
Not with this pivot method. The pattern pivots from the waistline so the original waist width remains unchanged.
Where is the hip line on a sewing pattern?
Use the printed hip line if one is provided. Otherwise, check the pattern information for the waist-to-hip distance or measure from your natural waist to the fullest part of your hips.
Do I adjust the front and back pattern pieces?
Yes. The calculated amount is applied across the side-seam edges of the front and back pieces.
Can I avoid cutting my original pattern when decreasing the hip?
Yes. You can fold the excess pattern underneath along the new side-seam edge rather than cutting it off permanently.
