When the weather turns cold, nothing feels (or looks) better than a perfectly tailored coat. The Winslet's Camille Straight-Cut Coat captures timeless structure and elegance—complete with welt pockets, a chest pocket, vented hem, and button cuffs. With its professional finish and tailored design, this project is ideal for experienced sewists ready to take their skills to the next level.
This detailed sewing tutorial walks you through every step of construction—from pattern prep to the final polished finish—so you can create a coat that's warm, stylish, and built to last.
Get the patternWhy Sew a Straight-Cut Coat?
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Classic tailoring: Clean lines and structured silhouette that never go out of style.
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Functional design: Includes welt waist pockets, inner chest pocket, and full lining for durability.
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Refined details: Front buttons, vented hem, and button cuffs for comfort and movement.
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Skill development: Master welt pockets, lined sleeves, lapel collar, vent finishing, and pad insertion.
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Versatile wardrobe piece: Dress it up with trousers or layer over casual wear for a timeless, elevated look.
Why Choose the Winslet’s Camille Coat Pattern?
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Expert-level drafting: Designed for precise tailoring and bold structure.
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Professional finishing: Welt pockets, structured collar band, lining, and optional shoulder and chest pads.
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Detailed steps: Full-length illustrated instructions for each stage.
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Inclusive sizing: US 02 - US 18 | UK 06 - UK 22 | EU 36 - EU 50
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Ideal fabric options: Works perfectly with heavier, non-stretch materials like wool blends, jacquard fleece, or tweed.
The Camille Coat pattern is available for sizes US 02 - US 18 | UK 06 - UK 22 | EU 36 - EU 50. Check the Camille Coat Size Chart and measure yourself to select the correct size (see the garment and body measurement tables).
Verify how much fabric you need by referencing the fabric yield table.
Step 1: Supplies & Notions
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Main fabric: Medium to heavy non-stretch fabric (jacquard fleece, wool blend, tweed, brushed fleece, corduroy, French terry)
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Lining fabric: Lightweight, stable fabric for interior structure
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3-ply polyester thread
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Buttons and button presser
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Fusible interfacing
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Optional: Sleeve head roll, shoulder pads, chest pad, sleeve pads
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Fabric shears or rotary cutter
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Chalk/marking pen
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Iron
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Tape measure
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Pins and needles
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Sewing machine or serger (zig-zag stitch can substitute)
Pro tip: Test-stitch thick fabrics ahead of time and press after each step for sharp seams and a crisp finish.
Step 2: Printing Your Digital Sewing Pattern
Before cutting your fabric, print your digital pattern at 100% scale on the correct paper size (usually A0 or A4/US Letter). Once printed, trim and tape the pages together following the pattern guide. Now your pattern is ready to use!
If you want to learn more about how to Print Digital Sewing Patterns, click here.
Step 3: Pattern Inventory: What Pieces to Prepare
For sewing the Camille Coat, cut all of these pieces:
Main Fabric:
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Front – cut 2 (A)
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Left Back – cut 1 (B)
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Right Back – cut 1 (C)
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Side Back – cut 2 (D)
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Front Sleeve – cut 2 (E)
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Back Sleeve – cut 2 (F)
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Front Facing Lining – cut 2 (G)
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Top Collar – cut 1 (H)
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Collar Band 1 – cut 1 (I)
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Bottom Collar – cut 1 (J)
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Collar Band 2 – cut 1 (K)
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Pocket Bone – cut 2 (L)
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Pocket Flap – cut 2 (M)
Lining Fabric:
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Front Side Lining – cut 2 (i)
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Left Back Lining – cut 1 (ii)
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Right Back Lining – cut 1 (iii)
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Side Back Lining – cut 2 (iv)
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Front Sleeve Lining – cut 2 (v)
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Back Sleeve Lining – cut 2 (vi)
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Pocket Lining – cut 4 (vii)
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Inner Pocket Lining – cut 2 (viii)
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Inner Pocket Bone – cut 2 (ix)
Step 4: Pattern Marking
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Lay out pattern pieces as shown in the cutting layouts. Align every grainline arrow parallel to the selvage.
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Transfer markings: Notches, darts, button placements, pocket locations, vent seams, collar notches, fold lines, and lining breaks to the wrong side of the fabric.
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Cut notches for reliable alignment during sewing. Don’t forget to mark the vent top and hem corners.
Step 5: Cutting Layout
- Reference the correct layout diagram in the Camille Sewing Guide for your chosen size and fabric width (45” or 60”).
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If using fabric with nap or a directional print, buy extra yardage and align pattern pieces accordingly.
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Pin or use pattern weights to secure each piece for accurate cutting.
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Trace the shapes and cut along the outlines, carefully removing any marking lines after cutting.
Step 6: Fabric Cutting and Preparation
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Cut every marked pattern piece.
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Double-check that you have all matching pieces in both main and lining fabrics.
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Seam allowance: This pattern uses a 1 cm (0.4 inch) seam allowance all around
except for 1.3 cm (1/2”) at the center back, sleeve armhole, and vent of all the lining pieces, as well as the side back piece (both around the lining and main fabric) and 3.8 cm (11/2”) at the front hem of the main fabric. -
Fuse interfacing on pieces requiring structure—especially front panels, collar, pocket flaps, and bones.
Step 7: Step by Step Instructions to Sew a Straight Cut Coat
1. To finish the dart:
1a. Slit the top pocket line of the front piece.
1b. Join the two dart legs together and iron it. Sew along the joined seam to close the dart.
1c. Press it flat down. Apply fusible interfacing over the joined dart legs and pocket marking, using a piece large enough to cover the entire area.
2. To attach side seams:
2a. Place the front piece and side back piece together with their right sides facing each other.
2b. Match the side seam notches. Pin and sew along the side seam.
2c. Spread open the seam and iron at both sides. Repeat the same process for the other front and side back pieces.
3. To prepare pocket flap and pocket bone:
3a. Fold the pocket flap in half on the longer side with the right sides facing inside. Iron it.
3b. Sew along both shorter sides, leaving the longer side unstitched.
3c. Turn the pocket flap right side out.
3d. Fold the pocket bone in half on the shorter side. Repeat the same process for the other pocket flap and pocket bone.
Note: Apply interfacing to the pocket welt and pocket flap to provide additional stiffness
and structure.
4. To create waist pocket with flap:
4a. Place the pocket lining on the wrong side of the front piece, aligning it with the pocket
marking. Pin it in place.
4b. Place the seamline at the open edge of the pocket flap along the top pocket marking on the front piece on the right side. Sew along the top pocket marking. Refer to Fig. 4b.
4c. Place the long open edge of the pocket bone along the bottom pocket marking on the front piece (right side) and sew along the bottom line.
4d. Move aside the seam allowances of the pocket bone and pocket flap. Trim along the
pocket marking at the center, making diagonal (V-shaped) cuts at the corners.
4e. Turn the pocket bone and the seam allowance of the pocket flap to the wrong side
through the trimmed pocket marking.
4f. Fold the front opening side of the front piece towards side seam to reveal the trimmed
corners, pocket flap, and pocket bone. Sew along the edges on both sides of the pocket to secure them. Repeat the same to the other side.
4g. Iron the pocket bone and pocket lining. Sew close to the edge of the pocket bone,
following the bottom pocket line to secure it. Refer to Fig. 4g.
4h. Sew along the edges of the pocket bottom and pocket sides on the right side of the
fabric, ensuring the pocket lining and pocket bone are positioned underneath.
4i. Place the second pocket lining piece on the first one, with their right sides facing each other.
4j. Attach the two pocket lining pieces by stitching along the seamlines on all edges.
4k. Serge with a zig-zag stitch or overlock stitch around the entire pocket edge to finish it neatly.
5. Preparing the vent:
5a. Fold the hemline and vent of the left back piece to the wrong side and iron to crease.
5b. Fold the hemline and outer vent of the right back piece to the wrong side andiron to crease.
6. To attach back pieces to prepared front piece:
6a. Place the prepared left front piece (front and side back attached) and the left back piece together, with their right sides facing each other.
6b. Match the bust line, waist line and back across line together. Sew along the back panel seam.
6c. Spread open and iron the seam.
6d. Repeat the same process for the prepared right front piece and the right back piece.
7. To attach the center back:
7a. Place the left back and right back pieces together with their right sides facing each other.
7b. Align the center back and sew from the top neckline to the vent starting point.
7c. Spread open the seamline and iron it.
8. To attach shoulder seams:
Place the shoulder seams of the coat together with their right sides facing each other. Sew along the shoulder seams on both sides.
9. To prepare front lining panel:
9a. Place the front-facing and the front-side lining pieces together with their right sides facing each other.
9b. Align the front panel seams and sew along the seamline.
9c. Spread open and iron the seam.
10. To create double welt inner coat pocket:
10a. Fold on the shorter sides of each pocket bone piece to the wrong side and iron it. Repeat the process with the other pocket bone piece.
10b. Place the inner pocket lining on the prepared front lining with their wrong sides facing each other. Align top edge with pocket top and pin it in place.
10c. Place the longer open edge of the prepared pocket bone onto the right side of the prepared front lining. Sew along the top pocket marking.
10d. Move aside the first pocket bone to place the longer open edge of the second pocket bone along the bottom pocket marking and sew along the bottom line.
10e. Trim the pocket marking at the center, cutting diagonally at the corners to create
V-shaped cuts.
10f. Pass the pocket bone pieces through the trimmed pocket marking to the wrong side.
10g. Adjust the pocket bones to ensure they are equally spaced on both sides of the
pocket and iron it.
10h. Fold the side seam of the front lining facing aside to expose the pocket bone pieces
and the trimmed v-shaped corner. Sew along the edges of the pocket opening to secure the pocket bone pieces and trimmed v-shaped corner. Repeat at both sides of the pocket.
10i. Sew along the bottom edge of the inner pocket marking.
10j. Sew along the top and side edges of the inner pocket marking.
10k. Place the right side of the other inner pocket lining against the wrong side of the
front lining, ensuring the pocket bone pieces are sandwiched securely in between.
10l. Align the inner pocket lining with the bottom inner pocket lining and sew all around the edges of the pocket lining.
10m. Serge around the edges of the pocket lining pieces to finish them neatly.
11. Attach all lining pieces together:
11a. Place the left back lining and side back lining pieces together with their right sides facing each other. Align the back panel seam.
11b. Sew along the back panel seam.
11c. Spread open the seam and iron it.
11d. Repeat steps 11a to 11c for the right back lining and side back lining pieces.
11e. Place the prepared left side and right side lining pieces together with their right sides
facing each other.
11f. Sew along the center back panel seam till the vent starting point.
11g. Spread open the seam allowance of the center back seam and iron it. Place both
prepared front lining pieces onto the back lining with their right sides facing. Align the
side seams and sew along them.
11h. Align the shoulder seams of the lining pieces with their right sides facing each
other. Sew along the shoulder seams.
12. To attach front facing lining and prepared main fabric front piece:
12a. Place the front piece and the front facing lining piece together with their right sides facing each other.
12b. Align the front opening seam and sew from the collar end notch to the hemline break seam.
12c. Repeat steps 12a and 12b process on both sides of the prepared coat. Trim any
excess fabric from the bottom hem of the front.
13. To finish back vent:
13a. Place the back vent pieces of the main fabric together with their right sides facing each other. Sew along the top chalk marked seamline of the vent.
13b. Fold the hemline and align the hem corners.
13c. Sew the hemline corner from the wrong side till chalk marked seamline. Repeat steps 13b to 13c for the left side of the vent.
13d. Place the lining vent over the vent of the main fabric, with their right sides facing each other. Sew along the vent, stopping at the hemline of the main fabric.
13e. Sew along the vent top of the main fabric to secure them. Ensure to sew until the chalk marked seamline of the left vent.
13f. Align the left-side vent and vent top of the lining with the corresponding areas on the main fabric, with their right sides facing each other. Sew along the vent top and the left-side vent, stopping at the hemline of the main fabric.
13g. Fold the hemline of the lining all around the coat and press it with an iron. At the corners, tuck the raw edges inside the lining. Align the hemline of the lining with the hemline of the main fabric, with their right sides facing each other. Sew along the hemline all around the coat to complete the finishing.
14. To attach collar:
14a. Place the top collar and bottom collar together with their right sides facing each other. Sew along the seamline, leaving the collar stand unstitched.
14b. Turn the collar right side out.
14c. Sandwich the prepared collar between Collar Band 1 and Collar Band 2, with their right sides facing each other. Align the collar stand notches.
14d. Sew along the collar stand and side seamlines.
14e. Spread open the seam and iron it.
14f. Fold the seam allowance of collar band piece inward and iron it to create a crease.
14g. Pin the prepared collar with the collar stand to the lining neckline, aligning the ends with the collar end notches.
14h. Sew along the lining neckline to attach the collar. First sew both neckline break seams then neckline.
14i. Similarly, pin the other side of the prepared collar with the stand to the main fabric neckline, with their right sides facing each other. Sew along the neckline of the main fabric.
14j. Turn the coat right side out.
Optional attachment: To attach the shoulder pad, align it with the armhole and position the center at the shoulder seam. Baste it along the armhole edge to secure it in place. When sewing the sleeve to the main fabric, sew the shoulder pad along with it for proper attachment. For the sleeve roll, sew it while attaching the main fabric sleeve to the coat.
15. To prepare sleeve with lining:
15a. Place the front and back sleeve pieces together with their right sides facing each other. Align the sleeve panel seam and sew along the seamline up to the vent top seamline. Repeat the same process for the front and back lining pieces, sewing up to the
start of the vent top.
15b. Fold the hem and hem corners from the seamline. Place the hem corners together with their right sides facing each other. Sew along the hem corner until the seamline is chalk marked.
15c. Repeat steps 15a and 15b for the other side of the vent.
15d. Place the lining and main fabric of the sleeve together with their right sides facing each other. Align the hemlines and sew along the hemline of the back sleeve.
15e. Align the lining and main fabric at the vent. Sew along the seamline to secure them.
15f. Sew along the vent top of the main fabric, ensuring to sew until the front sleeve vent top chalk marked seamline.
15g. Place the front sleeve lining and front sleeve of the main fabric together with their right sides facing each other. Align the vent top, vent, and hemline, then sew them together.
15h. Align the side seams of the front and back main fabric with the side seams of the front and back lining fabric. Sew along the side seams of both in one continuous stitch.
15i. Adjust the main fabric and lining sleeve into their correct positions and iron to smooth out the seams.
16. To attach sleeve with lining to the prepared lined coat:
16a. Place the prepared sleeve with lining inside the armhole of the main fabric,
aligning the armholes. Baste the armholes of the sleeve and coat of the main fabric
together.
16b. Sew along the armholes of the main fabric to secure the sleeve.
16c. Pull out the lining sleeve. Place and pin the lining armhole to the coat lining
armhole with their right sides facing each other.
16d. Sew along the armhole seamline as far as possible.
16e. Hand-stitch the remaining section of the lining armhole seam, ensuring the right
sides are facing each other.
17. Create buttonholes and sew buttons:
Use a button presser to create buttonholes on the designated markings of the coat. Additionally, create buttonholes on the sleeve vents as you desire. Sew all buttons in positions corresponding to the buttonholes.
Winslet’s sewing guide for Camille Coat includes clear diagrams that walk you through each step, making it easy to follow and complete your project with confidence.
For an overview of Winslet’s Sewing Guides, click here.
Ready to Make Your Own Timeless Coat?
The Winslet’s Camille Straight-Cut Coat offers a classic silhouette perfected for tailoring enthusiasts. With clean lines, elegant structure, and pro-grade details, it’s the kind of garment you’ll wear—and admire—for years.
Order your Camille Straight-Cut Coat pattern today and begin crafting your signature coat!
Show Off Your Straight-Cut Coat
Show your creation on Instagram or Facebook with #MadeWithWinslets for a chance to be featured! For any questions or issues, email the Winslet’s support team at support@winslets.com.
